Cambodia - Choeung Ek and Tuol Sleng

When we were in Phnom Penh, we took a tour of the Choeung Ek Killing Fields and the Tuol Sleng / S-21 prison. Our guide for the day was 5-9 years old during the Khmer Rouge rule and was separated from his family and sent to work on farm fields. He lost family members to the harsh conditions imposed by the Khmer Rouge. At the end of our tour, someone asked how he felt to be giving tours of the Killing Fields and the prison after what he has been through and he said that sometimes he becomes so overwhelmed that he cannot speak and that is why he tries to smile so much while explaining things. I had noticed the smiling but hadn't been sure if it was just a nervous reaction or a grimace.

Choeung Ek

Choeung Ek - stupa containing skulls
 of people killed here.

 

Choeung Ek - skulls inside stupa

 The one time our guide (probably unintentionally) let his anger show was when we were looking at photos of the kids working in the fields. He said that he (and the other kids) should have been in school holding pencils and not in fields holding hoes. It was a powerful and heartbreaking experience listening to him speak. I hope that I never forget it.

Tuol Sleng / S-21 Prison

Tuol Sleng / S-21 Prison - brick cells

Knowing only the basics of the Khmer Rouge and their reign, I learned a lot on our tour - like Pol Pot was a Buddhist monk for two years, that the Khmer Rouge were actually welcomed with open arms and celebrated when the first came into power and that it only took the regime a couple of hours to start displacing people from their homes. The most important thing I learned was how amazing Cambodians are. Since the end of the Khmer Rouge regime, they have been living peacefully side-by-side with former Khmer Rouge soldiers, with a former high ranking soldier appointed as their prime minister. It's not that they're not angry about what was done and it's not like they've forgiven what was done - they have just collectively decided that the best thing to do is to move on. If you retaliate out of revenge, the killing never stops and there will never be peace. I completely understand the reasoning and agree that it's the best thing to do for future generations, but I'm not sure that I could do it. I don't know if I could live beside someone I knew had committed such atrocities against my family and community. I am completely blown away by the strength and selflessness of the people here.